CHAS A. MILLER III · FORWARD/MILLER

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Entry gates of Drottningholm Slot, the palace is outside Stockholm.
Guards Pavilion on palace grounds.
All oramentation is out of plaster.
Sea Cloud II docked in Stockholm's Old Town.
Another amazing evening at sea enroute to Turku, Finland.
The Aland Archipelago separates Sweden from Finland and we sailed to its heart, the one-time Finnish capital of Turku.  From there we sailed onwards to today's capital of Helsinki.  There is an amazing mix of modern and historic architecture.
Eliel Saarinen's 1910 Helsinki Train Station. His son Eero went on to design the famed TWA Terminal at JFK Airport.
American architect Stephen Holl has designed Helsinki's stunning new contemporary museum, Klasma.

Photo taken by Nancy McKinney -- L to R -- David McKinney, President of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Chas Miller, Chris Giftos of the Met . . . and others . . .

Passengers aboard were members of the Met or the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and came from the United States, Bermuda, Netherlands, Switzerland and Japan.


The to the more medieval town of Tallinn (above and below), the again independent country of Estonia -- what a treasure of architecture but still in need of hundreds of millions in restoration.  To the credit of this non-EU government, they have come a long way in restoring many treasures, but there is still so much to do . . . which is made more difficult with support and special grants of the EU counties. 
Beautiful ironwork found throughout Tallinn

And finally finishing up the grand adventure by sailing up the Neva River to St. Petersburg, Russia . . .and docking on its embankment not from the the Admiralty and the Winter Palace.  Our location was very near to where the original Sea Cloud docked in 1937, bringing the newly appointed United States Ambassador to Stalin's U.S.S.R., Joseph E. Davies and this wife Marjorie Merriweather Post.  That Sea Cloud had been built in 1931 for Marjorie and then husband E.F. Hutton.  Sea Cloud still sails today under the ownership of Sea Cloud Cruises of Hamburg Germany.  Thus Sea Cloud II, while not a copy of the originially, certainly takes many of its queues for interpreting modern day sailing luxuries from the best of the past.

>> Olivier Bernier speaking on deck during arrival in St. Peterburg witht he gold dome of St. Isaac's Cathedral in the distance...


Across the Neva is the Fortress of Peter & Paul
The domes of the Chapel of the Catherine Palace at Tsarkeyo Selo
The forecourt of the palace, sans people, thanks to our early entry arranged by the Metropolitan Museum!
The tri-color of Tsarist times again flies in Russia today, here on a beautifully restored facade in St. Petersburg

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One final EXTRAORDINARY note was the amazing luck of being able to meet up with an old friend from Washington, DC who was posted at the Consulate General of the United States of America in St. Petersburg.  And with him, I was invited as his guest to a birthday dinner for a Russian friend.

In Russia, and in other Slavic counties, the tradition is to host your own birthday celebration.  We arrived promptly just moments past 8pm and were greeted by our host, Alexander (Sasha), who showed us into the drawing room.  There we found 11 of the 16 expected guests seated around the room -- but much to our surprise, everyone was reading books or looking at folios of art -- no one was talking.  We took our seats and waited quietly, whispering to each other about how obviously different customs can be.  Finally the last of the guests arrived and were ushered directly into the dining room.  ( I had now seen the entrance hall, drawing room, central square reception hall and the dining room -- 4 rooms and no sign yet of the kitchen or bedroom(s) -- this was a big apartment, even by American standards -- and had been in our hosts family for three generations -- one must assume though that they had to share with other families during the Soviet era...).

The dining table was fully set with placecards (mine in English -- "Jan's Friend").  Everyone spoke Russian (of course) but I did recieve occasional translations, and several of the guests spoke briefly in their best English -- but this was a Russian's party for Russian friends - I was the outside observer.  On the table was a bountiful assortment of 30 small plates of a varietyof dishes of caviar, salmon, ham, herring, five different salads, breads, fruits and more . . . the idea was to serve ones self and not have to reach far because of the many service plates.  Also scattered amongst the food were bottles and bottles of Russian Champagne, California red wines, Glenlivet Scotch, Stolichnaya Vodka, adn a dark Russian concoction.  And since it was a birthday celebration, there were toasts -- expected of each guest and often lasting 3-5 minutes in lenght -- they take remembering friendships very seriously -- not just words but vodka too.  I, not knowing the host except for meeting at the door, was spared but for the raising of the glass. 

And the evening went on with more courses to follow going late into the evening.  What an experience!


C H A S M I L L E R 3 @ G M A I L . C O M